Kenwood HB720 repair

Our Kenwood HB720 hand blender suddenly stopped working. The punchline of this post is that inside its excruciatingly-difficult-to-dismantle mechanism (i.e. never intended to be repaired), it includes a fuse, which had blown.  This post will be updated to give the details about how to take the machine apart, and whether I managed to reassemble it after replacing the fuse.

So, if “the motor is broken” on yours, it may just be the fuse that has blown.

One sign that the fuse is probably blown is that a diode test with +ve on phase, -ve on neutral shows open circuit when the Turbo button is pressed (this button bypasses the speed controller, and connects mains power via a bridge rectifier to the DC motor).


WARNING: Once dismantled the machine contains exposed live mains voltage parts. Do not dismantle unless you understand the danger and how to avoid injury. In particular treat the metal body of the motor as live (mains voltage) when the unit is plugged in.  More detail further down.

Tricky. There are a couple of videos purporting to show how to dismantle it, but I reckon they both are filmed after the unit has been dismantled and reassembled.

First remove the drive-end cover.  This is held in place by three  hooks on the inner plastic part, that engage with square holes on the cover.  One is above the ejector wedge on the side without the number stamped on it. The others are 120 degrees round from that. You might be able to get this cover off just by pulling very hard, but otherwise probe with a small screwdriver(s) to push the hooks inwards and disengage them.

The inner part is glued or welded in to the body.  This thing is a prick to get out. I attacked it with a screwdriver and a scalpel, and still it looks fairly munted.

Carefully prise off the speed control knob at the cord end.  This reveals 4 screws, to be removed. Turn over the plastic circle with the cog and undo the 2 screws to release the cord clamp. Slide the knob and clamp up the cord.

Now push on the plastic tray holding the circuit board, pull on the motor shaft to remove the motor + speed control assembly.


So here’s the speed controller board

The fuse is inside black heatshrink “FR-H TUBE 125C”.  It is soldered to the board.

The blown fuse
The speed controller

A strange thing is that the fuse is rated at 1.6A, while the machine is nominally 700W.  Unless I’m missing something, 3A at 240V is 720W, so either Kenwood is lying about the power rating, or the fuse rating is too low?

I replaced the fuse with a piece of wire, because I’m not planning to open this up again.


Having cut the glue/welds of the inner part to remove it, it needs something to keep it in place when reassembled.  You could glue it back in, but I opted for some small screws.

Once the blender was back in use, I got complaints from other family members that they were getting shocks off the blender.  It turns out that one of the metal screws would become live when it was running and the person was also contacting an earthed metal kitchen bench. The motor body gets live high voltage DC when the unit is running! I replaced it with a smaller screw, but perhaps glue or plastic screws would be a better option!


Schematic (Polish language)

Another set of photos about dismantling and assembling HB720.  Pretty good,  the inner and outer drive-end covers are shown still connected together. I doubt it is possible to remove them in this state. (Google translated version of above post)

9 thoughts on “Kenwood HB720 repair”

  1. Hi
    I had a go at gutting the Kenwood hand blender today..!! What a mission !!
    Prising the end off with the three locking arms was one of the hardest bits, finding the position of them in relation to the body with your instructions helped. (if you heat the plastic body with a hairdryer it makes it more flexible) I used a small screw driver and a serrated steak knife!! The piece with the three hooks does not come out with the body, I used the steak knife to get in and cut the bugger out, its definitely glued or heat welded in.
    Once thats out its easy to push the motor and electrics out
    Took me about two hours
    I was thinking of seeing if there was enough room in the cable end for a fuse holder, just run the wires to the board and solder them on the pins, if not I’ll just bridge it out.
    Next step re-assemble, but not today – footballs on later!
    Thanks for the info and the link to the pics

    1. Good to know at least one person found this useful!
      I just edited the post to add a warning about the motor casing being live when the blender is running – take care!

  2. I just started to pull mine apart. Got either end off easy enough, but need to re-group and attack the inner piece with more violence. Is it just a matter of cutting round the seam all the way aroudn the sides?

    Thanks for giving me at least some hope…

  3. HB 790 has an alloy name plate if you prise it off there is a tab under it that when you insert a screw driver and twist as well as pushing both buttons in the motor slides out, it is not glued in.

  4. Great! So I managed to get the HB790 separated, and found that the main fuse was blown. I jumpered the fuse, pressed the pulse button and it tripped the circuit breaker (with a spark too!). Pulled the motor off the electrical board, and it still tripped the power. I could have sworn the yellow capacitor felt warm, but could have been my imagination.
    Any guesses Big Blen or Rob Probin what could have gone wrong? Thanks!

  5. I am thinking of bypassing the fuse as well, but is it safe to do so? Will it cause other damage or safety hazard?

    1. You could replace with (for example) a 5Amp fuse. I personally am not worried about safety – if something goes really wrong with the machine, I expect it would trip a circuit breaker on my house distribution board. And given that you’re right there when it is operating, if it catches fire or something you can switch it off…

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